Rooted

 | Colombia

Arroz con Coco
Look, there are people who make coconut rice with the water... not us though...

“Mira, hay personas que hacen el arroz de coco con la agua... nosotros no...”

My grandmother’s voice picked up speed and force as she began to tell me the recipe over the phone, only punctured by small pauses.

In the coast...

“En la costa...”

The coast of santa marta

Five years had passed since I had last been “En la costa...”, Colombia’s Caribbean Coast. For my grandmother it has been over a decade—after the death of my great-grandmother, she has not stepped foot in her homeland again.

The next time I see you, I will make you this rice.

“La próxima vez que te vea, te hago ese arroz.”

Neither of us know when that next time will be, but we both can hope that only a few months seperate us from that moment.

While waiting for that next time to come around—hoping that maybe finally it could be in Colombia—I was on the rooftop in Cartagena’s Getsemani neighborhood, it was late morning and the sky, spotless. I thought of my grandmother as I fastened the apron in the open air kitchen, waiting, patiently, to learn step by step how to make arroz de coco—from someone else.

My trips to la costa began before my own memory begins. I see myself in a faded picture, a baby held by a stranger that is a family member. I was born in the interior, but just like my father I came to know that sea in Santa Marta, his hometown.

And yet here I was, watching the instructor, Jenn, demonstrating how to open a coconut. I should’ve known how to do that already, shouldn’t I?

The almost native and perpetual tourist, an uncomfortable role to dress all the while being the ever-attentive student. I grabbed an opened coconut a began to peel the white flesh away, simulating Jenn’s gestures.

Photos go here

Receta

Arroz de coco con sus tres acompañamientos, patacones con guiso y orellanas salteadas

Recipe

Coconut rice with three sides, double fried green plantains with sauteed guiso sauce

Arroz de coco | Coconut Rice

2-3 Coconuts

200-250 Grams of short-grain rice

Sal y azucar al gusto


  1. Crack open the coconuts.
  2. Peel the white coconut flesh from the shell.
  3. Cut into medium size chunks (5 to 6 cm).
  4. Extract the coconut milk from the fruit. The amount of milk will depend on the coconut. There are two methods:
  5. Soak the leftover bagazo in water and set it aside. The remaining coconut flavor will infuse the water that will be used to cook the rice. Use enough water for the quantity and type of rice you will be using.
  6. Place the pot you will cook the rice in over medium heat.
  7. Pour the coconut milk into the pot to brown. Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar.
  8. As the milk begins to brown and bubble, lower the heat slightly to medium-low. Stir or swish the pot occasionally, make sure not to over stir.
  9. The milk will reduce into solids that should be golden brown and toasted.
  10. Add the rice and fry it briefly in the oils from the toasted coconut milk. Bring the heat to low and stir to avoid burning.
  11. Strain the water infused with bagazo with a fine mesh strainer.
  12. Pour the water into the rice, add additional seasoning to your taste and cover.
  13. Cook for the time appropriate the rice you are using, cool, fluff and serve.
Guiso | Sauted Tomato-Based Sauce

Here comes the hogao

Orellanas Salteadas | Pan-fried Oyster Mushrooms

Here comes the orellenas

Patacones | Double Fried Green Plantains

Here comes the patacones